Performance goodies for the new 350??? Need input!!!

[barbastard]

So, I’m looking through my summit catalog this weekend picking out all the parts I want to throw on the new 350 I’m getting and I’ve got some questions. Figured maybe Scott, Kevin, Ryan or any of the other “engine guru” type guys could help me out with.

1. I’ve got to put a new set of lifters in the engine because my buddy tells me one of them is bad (makes some noise when the engine is first fired up but goes away once it fills with oil), so I figured I might as well throw a new cam in while I’m at it. So…what’s the best/right cam for me to get? I’ve seen some of the special “truck” cams (Crane makes some, then there’s the truck avenger cam’s, and the comp cams extreme) advertised in Summit…do they really make a difference? Or is it just marketing? Should I run a regular “car” cam? The engine currently has a “RV” cam in it, would swapping in new/different one really make that big of a difference over what’s in their now? Should I swap to a roller cam? Some info on the engine: it’s currently set up with flat top pistons, some moderate machine work, a new distributor, high out put coil, stock manifold, stock exhaust manifolds, it’s only got about 7000 miles on it since being completely rebuilt.

2. I want to put a new intake on it, what do you recommend? Just a simple Edelbrock performer? Looked like everything else had to high of an RPM range for what I want. Should I get the matching cam that comes with it?

3. Considering putting headers on as well (depending on budget), what brand/type do you recommend? Anything I should be looking for? I’ve never run headers so I’m pretty uneducated on them. Are the benefits truly worth the extra money and hassle of them?

4. Any other performance goodies that I should be considering for install….that are relatively inexpensive and that don’t require me to tear down the whole engine?


My hope is to have all the parts purchased and installed on the block by mid-January and then slap it in sometime Jan/Feb.

[k5krushert1]

is this a egr or non egr motor? hows it set up? ive been told to stay clear of headers if you can because of exhaust leaks and clearance issues.burt 4x4 recomended a set of headers that stayed sealed well and cleared. he will probably speak up.and you will want that edelbrock manifold good for the lower rpm ranges i think thats just the performer manifold not the performer rpm.i read good stuff about those crane 4x4 cams i think crane makes them :beer:

[jays68yak]

Yeah saturday I was telling him about the chevelle shorty headers for clearance issues.

Some people swear by the copper gaskets for headers. I personally use paper gaskets and if you keep an eye on them they are fine. Also retighten them after a few heat cycles.

[k5krushert1]

o yeah for the no.4 question forget a carb and GO TPI :banger: with 2 tpi masters on the forum im sure they will get you set up :2thumbs: . i also live 15 minutes from the summit wherehouse now :bling:

[barbastard]

o yeah for the no.4 question forget a carb and GO TPI :banger: with 2 tpi masters on the forum im sure they will get you set up :2thumbs:

Umm…no. I’ll keep my carb…thank you very much. I’m very happy with it and don’t EVEN want to introduce that headache into my life.

Anymore info on the cams guys??? That’s the biggest area where I need the help.

[jays68yak]

or tbi, way cheap and way easy.

[k5krushert1]

yeah you have to love hearing the secondarys opening up :2thumbs: im for carb too mine needs a rebuild though

[barbastard]

or tbi, way cheap and way easy.

And way too much of a headache. Nope…I’m going to be a caveman and stick with my carb.

[barbastard]

yeah you have to love hearing the secondarys opening up :2thumbs: im for carb too mine needs a rebuild though

I’m going to have a carb off the engine I’m buying that I need to get rid of. I’ll sell you it for cheap. It was rebuilt about 3000 miles ago by a carb guru up in Chico named Cliff Rose. The thing runs like a champ and can run sidehill, steephill no problems. I’d keep it but my carb is already pimped and runs killer. PM me if you want it and we can discuss $$$.

[Nosmog73]

I have a edelbrock intake if you want ..IIRC it is part number 1101 good for the RPM range you will be in.. :2thumbs:

[barbastard]

I have a edelbrock intake if you want ..IIRC it is part number 1101 good for the RPM range you will be in.. :2thumbs:

egr or no egr?

I'll check summit too.

How much? What condition it is in?

[jays68yak]

I have a edelbrock intake if you want ..IIRC it is part number 1101 good for the RPM range you will be in.. :2thumbs:

What RPM range is that? Idle? haha damn doubler guys.

[Nosmog73]

I have a edelbrock intake if you want ..IIRC it is part number 1101 good for the RPM range you will be in.. :2thumbs:

egr or no egr?

I'll check summit too.

How much? What condition it is in?

Well since no one wants to buy it then you can have it it could use a light cleaning but nothing other then that..Cant go wrong for free...lol

[barbastard]

I have a edelbrock intake if you want ..IIRC it is part number 1101 good for the RPM range you will be in.. :2thumbs:

I checked Edelbrock’s website, looks like they don’t have a part number #1101

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/chevy_sb_perf.shtml

Is it one of those?

[Nosmog73]

Sorry my bad..Part number is 2101..

Now the pic looks worse then it is but I know of a persone that can bead blast it to new conditon who might be coming to Jays for his seat frame...
And that is silicon on the water neck area because I used a dam :bling: water neck and it leakes so I sealed it with sillycone...lol but a bead cleaning and it will be good looking as new.. :2thumbs:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/mikee_95242/MVC-019S.jpg

[barbastard]

Sorry my bad..Part number is 2101..

Now the pic looks worse then it is but I know of a persone that can bead blast it to new conditon who might be coming to Jays for his seat frame...
And that is silicon on the water neck area because I used a dam :bling: water neck and it leakes so I sealed it with sillycone...lol but a bead cleaning and it will be good looking as new.. :2thumbs:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/mikee_95242/MVC-019S.jpg

SOLD.

I’ll take it. Maybe I can convince Scott into bead blasting it for me.

I think my rig is non EGR. How do I tell? I have no smog equipment other than a charcoal canister (if that helps).

[shewheeler]

The 2101 is the one I have on my truck... same year as yours, I believe (1977).

Smog legal and all that crapola :uh oh:
http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/albums/album57/purdy.jpg
when it was still all purdiful :)

[PaloAltoK5]

This is what I got ofr my rig, finished installing it yesterday.

Performer EPS (non-EGR) #2701*
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/images/2701.jpg

Chevrolet 262-400 Small-Block V8
PERFORMER EPS (idle-5500 rpm)
Designed for 1986 and earlier 262-400 cubic-inch Chevys, the Performer EPS dual-plane manifold is optimized to deliver superior performance with Edelbrock square-bore Performer Series or Thunder Series AVS carburetors. This small-block Chevy manifold has a runner design that's "tuned" for peak torque around 3500 rpm on a 350-inch engine and it's ideal for power from off-idle to 5500 rpm. Dyno tests showed gains of 5 hp and 9 ft/lbs of torque over the Edelbrock Performer manifold #2101 on a 350 Chevy. From 3000 to 4500 rpm, the increases averaged 5+ ft/lbs. of torque for more performance where you need it most. Look for the Performer EPS to "up the standards" in dual-plane intake manifold design. Match with a dependable Edelbrock square-bore carburetor for maximum performance gains. Also available with PermaStar or new EnduraShine finish for a look you've got to see to believe, see Optional Finishes.

[Tony Somethingoranother]

I dont know much about cams for tree fiddys, but I do know that for header gaskets, you cant go wrong with the graphite jobbies by earls.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ear-29d03b.jpg

I dont remember paying $37 for mine when I bought them, but they did not leak till the day I took them off. I was running a thick header flange, and stage 8 bolts too. (the bolts are expensive too, are a PITA to setup, but work great otherwise.)

[edit] If it wernt for the fact that I keep thinking I will be stuffin a 5.3 into my blazer, I would be mad I missed out on a free manfold :crybaby:

[barbastard]

Ok, cool. Thanks for the input on the header gaskets. If I go that route I’ll be sure to use those ones.

ANYBODY have some good input on a cam??? That’s where I need the most help.

I’m thinking about moving the timetable up on this build. I want to have all my parts by turkey day and then I want to throw the engine in sometime in January.

[jays68yak]

too far out, all parts by next weekend and in and running by sunday night. :flipoff2: :beer: :beer:

[Ryan B.]

If you ever plan on going injected get a cam with a 112-114 LSA so it will be computer friendly. Hyd. roller would probably be the way to go but its gonna cost quite a bit more money than a flat tappet hyd. cam.
The cam i run in my 350 is a Gm performance parts cam, was the "300 horse corvette cam" back in '69.. Today they put the same cam in their 350hp/350 crate motors. I guess it has higher hp numbers with better heads and such now..
specs are: 212/222 duration @ .050", .435"/.460" lift, 112.5 LSA.

-Something to remember when comparing cams, don't look at the advertised duration because different cam companies spec their cams differently, like crower might spec their cams at .005" tappet lift and comp might spec their cams at .006" tappet lift or something for example..
You'll want to compare duration @ .050 figures to really compare apples to apples. :2thumbs:
-Degreeing in your cam takes maybe a half an hour with the right tools, and will unleash some hidden horsepower if you get it to match the cam card specs, instead of "lining up the dots" and calling it good enough which can be several degrees off. ..Hardly anyone degrees in a cam.
-Its also a good idea to put some modeling clay on top of a piston, bolt on the head with an old gasket, and spin the motor over once. Cut the clay in half and measure your piston to valve clearance. Rule of thumb is you want .100" piston to vavle clearance. You can do this with your current setup to figure out just how much more lift you could put in there.. Also consider if you ever went from 1.5 rockers to 1.6 rockers that will affect lift also so you could calculate just how much less clearance that would give you. :pimp1:

[CaptainInsano]

I'd run the Performer package, been around forever tried and true. Cam and intake.

Hedman Torque Step headers with Flow40s.

My headers fit fine, no leaks, and definitely have better throttle response and power.

[barbastard]

If you ever plan on going injected get a cam with a 112-114 LSA so it will be computer friendly. Hyd. roller would probably be the way to go but its gonna cost quite a bit more money than a flat tappet hyd. cam.
The cam i run in my 350 is a Gm performance parts cam, was the "300 horse corvette cam" back in '69.. Today they put the same cam in their 350hp/350 crate motors. I guess it has higher hp numbers with better heads and such now..
specs are: 212/222 duration @ .050", .435"/.460" lift, 112.5 LSA.

-Something to remember when comparing cams, don't look at the advertised duration because different cam companies spec their cams differently, like crower might spec their cams at .005" tappet lift and comp might spec their cams at .006" tappet lift or something for example..
You'll want to compare duration @ .050 figures to really compare apples to apples. :2thumbs:
-Degreeing in your cam takes maybe a half an hour with the right tools, and will unleash some hidden horsepower if you get it to match the cam card specs, instead of "lining up the dots" and calling it good enough which can be several degrees off. ..Hardly anyone degrees in a cam.
-Its also a good idea to put some modeling clay on top of a piston, bolt on the head with an old gasket, and spin the motor over once. Cut the clay in half and measure your piston to valve clearance. Rule of thumb is you want .100" piston to vavle clearance. You can do this with your current setup to figure out just how much more lift you could put in there.. Also consider if you ever went from 1.5 rockers to 1.6 rockers that will affect lift also so you could calculate just how much less clearance that would give you. :pimp1:

Um…ok…you lost me about 4 miles ago. But thank you very much for the response. :crazy:

That shit is WAY over my head. :unsure:

This time maybe in English :confused2: ……what cam should I run? Part number perhaps?? You’ve got to remember…you’re dealing with someone who knows VERY LITTLE about “exhaust durations, degreeing in a cam, advertised durations, durations at .050, 1.5 to 1.6 rockers, piston to valve clearance” etc.

However….if you’re interested….I’d gladly pay for a little assistance in putting this thing together once I get all the parts.
:beer: :2thumbs:

[jays68yak]

yeah hell do a good job at tappin your box. :flipoff2:

[Tony Somethingoranother]

I remember hearing that 350 cams have a tendency to walk themselvs thru the timing chain cover?? :D

[Nosmog73]

Something to think about also nate is that are you not smogging this anymore..If so you have to plan the cam around that... :2thumbs:

[Ryan B.]

My bad. I forgot who i was talking to.
If numbers don't mean anything then just pick out a cam with a cool name. "baja beast" or "saturday night special" er something.

get a cam button to prevent the cam from walking.

[barbastard]

My bad. I forgot who i was talking to.
If numbers don't mean anything then just pick out a cam with a cool name. "baja beast" or "saturday night special" er something.

get a cam button to prevent the cam from walking.

Good one….. :rotflmao:

Yeah maybe I’ll do that. :flipoff2:

If you come up this weekend I’ll just plan on having you pick one out for me in the summit catalog :D . It's not that numbers don't mean anything....it's just that I don't understand them.